The ancestral wines have returned to centre stage in the wine world. But what exactly are they and why are they attracting so much interest? In this article we will explore the definition of ancestral wine, how the ancestral method (also known as rural method or méthode ancestrale), its historical origins and development over time, the main differences compared to the classic method, the advantages and peculiarities of these wines, the areas of production today in Italy and around the world with the most widely used grapes, up to the current trends that see a great return of ancestral wines among wine enthusiasts.

What is an ancestral wine?

The term ancestral wine refers to a sparkling or sparkling wine produced by the so-called ancestral method, the oldest sparkling wine-making method still in use. It is also called the rural method and, in international circles, known as méthode ancestrale. In practice, these are wines made by allowing the refermentation to take place naturally in the bottle thanks to the residual sugars in the wine, without adding sugar or external yeasts. This traditional process makes exclusive use of the indigenous yeasts present in the grapes and interrupts the primary fermentation before all the sugars are consumed, and then completes it inside the bottle. The result is a genuine ‘bottomless’ sparkling wine, often slightly cloudy because disgorging (removal of the yeast from the bottle) is not carried out. This cloudiness and the deposit of yeast at the bottom are not defects, but typical characteristics: on the contrary, they contribute to the development of particular aromas of bread crust and marked yeasty scents due to the presence of the yeasts. Ancestral wines tend to have a rustic and authentic profile, with more delicate and less aggressive bubbles than other industrial sparkling wines, but with lively and pleasant acidity and flavour. An ancestral wine is the fruit of an ancient approach in which nature regulates the rhythm of fermentation. It is no coincidence that, despite its humble rural origins, today this type has become popular among enthusiasts seeking wines with authenticity, uniqueness and naturalness of flavour.

How does the ancestral method work?

The ancestral method is a production process based on a single alcoholic fermentation, conducted in two stages (first in the tank and completed in the bottle) without the addition of sugar or foreign yeasts at the bottling stage. Below, we take a step-by-step look at the typical stages in the production of an ancestral wine:
1) Grape harvest - Grapes destined for ancestral wine are harvested, often slightly in advance of full ripeness. This ensures fresher acids and a non excessive sugar content, ideal for obtaining a light wine and maintaining a natural residual sugar. The grapes can be harvested by hand; the important thing is that they are healthy, as the method will not use correctives such as extra sugar or selected yeasts
2) Crushing and initial fermentation - The grapes are gently pressed to extract the must and preserve the indigenous yeasts naturally present on the skins. The must then begins primary alcoholic fermentation in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks. When a part of the sugars has been transformed into alcohol, the producer interrupts or slows down the fermentation by lowering the temperature of the tank. In this way, sufficient residual sugars remain in the wine to ensure a second fermentation phase later on.
3) Bottling - The partially fermented wine (still sweet and rich in suspended yeasts) is bottled and closed, traditionally without filtering and without adding yeast or sugar. Everything needed for re-fermentation is already naturally present in the liquid. A cork suitable for holding the internal pressure is often used for sealing, or corks tied with cages. Bottling is carried out in winter, when the wine is cold and fermentation almost at a standstill, in order to preserve the residual sugars until spring.
4) Re-fermentation in the bottle - As temperatures rise in spring, the natural yeasts ‘awaken’ and start fermenting the remaining sugars directly in the bottle. In this second fermentation phase (which is actually the completion of the first), the yeasts produce additional alcohol and carbon dioxide (CO₂). Since the bottle is hermetically sealed, the CO₂ cannot disperse and remains dissolved in the wine, generating the bubbles and internal pressure typical of a sparkling wine. This process is called mousse taking, which is similar to what happens in the classic method, but here achieved without external intervention. Refermentation in the bottle typically takes a few days or weeks to exhaust all the sugars. The bottles during this phase and immediately after are kept in the cellar away from light, at a cool, constant temperature (~12-15°C) and without vibration, until fermentation is complete.
5) Maturation on the lees in the bottle - Once fermentation is complete, the wine remains in the bottle on its spent yeasts (fine lees) for a certain period of ageing. This period can vary greatly: some ancestral wines are marketed after only a few months, others rest on the lees for years, depending on the style and choices of the producer. During prolonged contact with the yeasts, the wine develops further aromatic complexity (notes of bread, biscuit, dried fruit) and a rounder structure on the palate, similar to the classic method with long ageing. However, in the ancestral method, ageing is often shorter than in the classic method, as the intention is to maintain freshness and liveliness.
6) No disgorgement - A distinctive feature of ancestral wines is that disgorging is not carried out: the bottles do not undergo the expulsion of spent yeast from the neck as happens in the classic method. The yeast deposit therefore remains inside the bottle, giving rise to the classic cloudy or slightly turbid (bottomed) appearance. The yeast bottom is edible and rich in substances that enrich the wine. When serving, one can choose whether to pour the wine slowly, leaving the sediment in the bottle for a clear glass, or to shake the bottle slightly to put the lees back into suspension and enjoy the wine in its entirety. In some cases, especially for markets less accustomed to veiled wine, some producers perform a slight disgorgement or filtration to make the product clearer. As a rule, the ancestral wines are without dosage, i.e. without the addition of sugar after frothing, resulting in dryness or with barely perceptible residue, and moderate alcohol.

At the end of this process, an artisanal sparkling wine is obtained that can be enjoyed either as an aperitif or as an informal meal wine. It is important to note that, due to the spontaneous nature of the method, each bottle may differ slightly: ancestral wines of the same vintage often have different nuances from bottle to bottle, reflecting their vitality and craftsmanship

Historical origins of the ancestral method

The ancestral method has its roots in ancient times and is recognised as the first sparkling wine method used by man. It is believed that the first bubbles in history originated this way - even some claim as far back as Roman times - although the first concrete documentation dates back to the late Middle Ages/Renaissance. A famous story places the origin of the ancestral method in the 16th century in the south of France. In Limoux, a small town in Languedoc, the Benedictine monks of the Abbey of Saint-Hilaire are said to have bottled a local white wine believing that fermentation had finished, when in fact it had only stopped with the winter cold. In spring, as the temperature rose, the bottled wine spontaneously started fermenting again, producing carbonic gas and causing many bottles to explode due to the accumulated pressure. Some bottles, however, resisted and the result was a pleasantly sparkling wine: the rural (or ancestral) méthode was born. This was around 1530, well before people deliberately started making sparkling wine. It was not until more than a century later, around 1668, that Dom Pérignon in Champagne deepened his studies on controlled refermentation. By understanding how to avoid accidental explosions and how to obtain more stable bubbles, he laid the foundations of what would become the modern Champenoise method (or classic method). The difference was substantial: the Champagne method involved the controlled addition of sugar and yeast to trigger a second fermentation in the bottle, allowing better control of the process and the end result. In other words, Dom Pérignon helped transform a fortuitous discovery (the ancestral method) into a deliberate and repeatable technique (the classic method). Meanwhile, the old method continued to be used in rural areas. In various regions of Europe, farmers produced sparkling wines for family consumption using residual natural sugar. Even in many parts of Italy, before the industrial era, it was common for wine to ‘go sparkling’ on its own in the spring: our grandparents would bottle the not quite dry wine after the harvest and leave it in the cellar to re-ferment. This was done without perhaps full scientific knowledge, but by empirical wisdom handed down. Such home-made wines were often consumed locally and not put on the market, because they were considered rustic products. With the advent of controlled sparkling methods in the 19th and 20th centuries, the ancestral practice faded into the background and survived almost only as a local tradition. In Italy, the advent of clearer and more predictable sparkling wines relegated bottom wines to the rank of peasant curiosities, often not bottled professionally. Yet, in recent decades, there has been a rediscovery: what was the ‘poor’ method of the peasantry has thus entered contemporary production as a conscious choice, enhancing the ancestral wine-making tradition.

Advantages and peculiarities of ancestral wines

Ancestral wines possess a number of peculiarities and advantages that make them unique and increasingly appreciated by a wide range of consumers. Here are the main characteristics of these wines:

– Naturalità e autenticità produttiva: Essendo ottenuti senza aggiunta di zuccheri o lieviti estranei e spesso senza chiarifiche né filtrazioni, i vini ancestrali sono considerati tra i più naturali. Sfruttano i lieviti indigeni dell’uva e la dolcezza naturale del mosto, e ciò si traduce in un prodotto che riflette fedelmente la materia prima e il territorio. Il concetto di terroir è esaltato: i lieviti autoctoni presenti sulle bucce partecipano alla fermentazione e contribuiscono a esprimere il vero carattere del luogo di origine del vino​. Ogni bottiglia può raccontare la storia dell’annata e del vigneto in modo genuino, senza interventi correttivi. Chi cerca vini “veri” e poco artefatti trova negli ancestrali un terreno fertile.

– Low sulphur and few additives: Many ancestral method producers also adopt a minimalist philosophy in sulphiting. These wines are often bottled without added sulphites or with a very low sulphur dose, thanks to the natural protection provided by the CO₂ and the reduced environment of the closed bottle. The absence of repeated disgorging and decanting also reduces oxidation, allowing preservatives to be limited. The result is wines perceived as ‘lighter’ and digestible by some sulphite-sensitive consumers. In addition, as the wine does not undergo tight filtration, no oenological aids are often added, keeping the wine as pure as possible.

– Delicate and integrated bubbles: Ancestral wines generally have moderate pressure (sometimes classified as semi-sparkling). The bubbles are finely diffused and less aggressive on the palate, offering a creamy but soft froth. This gentle effervescence, combined with the lack of sugar dosage, makes them extremely drinkable. The carbon dioxide does not overpower the taste but blends in, giving crispness and liveliness to the sip.

– Low alcohol content: Ancestral wines often have a relatively low or moderate alcohol content (generally between 10% and 12% vol). This is because the grapes can be harvested a little earlier and no sugar is added to increase the alcohol. The result is fresh, light wines, ideal as aperitifs or to accompany not too structured dishes. The low alcohol content also makes them suitable for light-hearted consumption, for example in summer.

– Unique organoleptic profile: Thanks to prolonged contact with yeasts and the absence of filtration, ancestral wines develop distinctive flavours and aromas. Typically, we can find notes of fresh bread, citrus, fresh fruit and sometimes light notes of almond or honey depending on the grape. The presence of the yeast background can also give a full taste sensation and a slight turbidity that paradoxically increases the perception of softness on the palate. These are wines that are constantly evolving: the same bottle, tasted months apart, may have developed different nuances due to the action of the yeast that continues slowly. This dynamic complexity is an advantage for those who like to experiment: each sip may reserve a few surprises.

– Tradition and craftsmanship: Buying an ancestral wine often means supporting small artisanal producers and traditional methods that were in danger of being lost. There is a cultural value in drinking a wine made ‘the old-fashioned way’. These products embody sustainability and rural wisdom. For many enthusiasts, the appeal also lies in the gesture of gently turning the bottle upside down to awaken the bottom and in serving a wine that visually communicates its authenticity.

Where is ancestral wine produced today?

The ancestral wine is now produced in several regions, each with its own interpretation and a strong link to the territory:

Sicily: Sicily represents a historic crossroads for ancestral wine-growing, thanks to its ancient wine-making tradition and great variety of indigenous grapes. Sicilian producers are rediscovering traditional winemaking techniques to enhance the island's wine heritage. Varieties such as Grillo, Nero d'Avola and Catarratto are the stars of these wines. Thanks to the warm and sunny climate, the grapes reach perfect ripeness to produce natural, fresh and mineral sparkling wines. Several areas have become important foci of ancestral wine production, thanks also to the interest in organic and natural wines that is growing throughout the region.

Italy: Throughout Italy, ancestral wine is experiencing a renaissance, with many regions rediscovering and enhancing traditional winemaking techniques. For example, in Veneto, Prosecco producers are creating ancestral versions, in which the wine is re-fermented in the bottle without the addition of yeast or sugar. Even in Emilia-Romagna, the home of Lambrusco, producers are rediscovering bottom wines, using grapes such as Lambrusco di Sorbara and Malvasia di Candia to make fresh and sparkling wines, but with a totally natural approach. In Lombardy, Franciacorta is making small experiments with the ancestral method, trying to apply more natural techniques while maintaining a high and recognised quality. Even in Tuscany, some small wineries are trying to produce ancestral wines from grapes such as Trebbiano and Sangiovese, emphasising the freshness and authenticity of the territories.

Rest of the World: The phenomenon of ancestral wine is not limited to Italy, but is also gaining ground in other regions of the world. In France, for example, the Languedoc and Loire areas are very active in the production of Pét-Nat, using varieties such as Chenin Blanc, Gamay and Mauzac. Spain, particularly Catalonia, is rediscovering the ancestral method of producing fresh and sparkling wines from indigenous grape varieties such as Xarel-lo. In Australia, the growing natural wine scene has led several producers to experiment with the ancestral method, using local varieties such as Shiraz to make sparkling wines.